THE LOWDOWN

In the rolling valleys of beautiful, pony-filled Dartmoor sits imposing 5 star Bovey Castle, a hotel oozing elegance and class. It was founded in 1890 by WH Smith (yes, he founded those shops too…) who handed the reigns to his son to build the castle in a Neo-Elizabethan style. It’s seen a lot of history since then, becoming a convalescent home for soldiers and a military hospital before opening as a golf resort and hotel in 1930.

The 275-acre site was taken over by Eden Hotel Collection (who are behind Muddy favourites Mallory Court and The Arden Hotel too) in 2014 and given a multi-million pound makeover. And today you’ll find it shining bright in the heart of the moors with holiday lodges perfect for families, a huge 18-hole golf course, spa, two award-winning onsite restaurants, a deer park on its doorstep and heaps of activities for all ages.

Its most recent upgrade has been to kitchen The Great Western Grill, which has undergone a £1.2million refurb. It’s just reopened after being closed for three years (thanks Covid). There’s a mouth-watering menu and excellent service, but more on that later…

THE VIBE

Pure unadulterated luxury from as soon as you arrive, but without the awkward pomp. Friendly staff are on hand to help you park and sweep those heavy bags from your hands (Mr Muddy was relieved, a light packer I am not). Walk through the lobby to be greeted by a sweeping Jacobian staircase and wood panelling throughout the building. It’s all golds, plums and muted tones with feature pieces like grand pianos, rocking horses, original fireplaces and vintage pictures adorning the walls.

There’s more cosy lounges than you could argue one hotel would need, but its part of the charm. If you want to go a hotel and still get away from it all (and everyone else) that’s totally do-able here. The bar is well-stocked with drinks from champagne cocktails to moijtos (both delicious, of course I had to try them). There’s a huge choice of whiskies and gins with many local options so when you’ve grabbed your tipple of choice head through to one of the many lounges. They’re filled with big squishy sofas with views for days over the gorgeous grounds to which there is easy access from most rooms in the hotel.

If you’d prefer your drink al fresco then outside and there’s yet more seating (unsurprisingly popular on warm evenings) but spaced well out so the next table isn’t destroying your zen vibes.

There’s an 18 hole championship golf course here so if your other half is a budding Rory McIlroy book him in for a few rounds while you kick back in the art-deco style spa complete with sauna, steam room and huge windows out over the course. If you’ve forgotten your bikini, some golfing gear or want to pick up some cute gifts there’s a shop onsite selling everything from clothes to local honey and handmade pens made using wood from the estate. There’s some beautiful walks around the ground whether you fancy a quick hike or a three-hour ramble, and staff have handy maps so you don’t get lost. For sports onsite there’s free boules and a croquet lawn – bonus points if you actually know how to play.

There are actually heaps of things to do here whether you’re booking a quiet, relaxing break for two or a fun-filled family holiday. And most importantly, you don’t have to go offsite to make the most of it. Park up the car and then forget about it. If relaxation is the name of the game you can chill in the spa, take afternoon tea, enjoy leisurely strolls of the grounds and have a game of golf, if that’s your thing. For a more adventure-heavy jaunt there’s some really reasonably priced activities like off-road driving, archery, clay pigeon shooting, goat feeding, fly fishing and deer park tours. We went air rifle shooting which came in at £35 each for an hour (I won, though we’re not keeping score…). There’s free activities too like informative falconry displays – which for me was one of the highlights of the break – bike rides, tennis and meeting the chickens and ferrets.

The whole hotel has been really well thought out with a play zone for younger kids (pictured above), a gaming space for teens (which is monitored by a camera in reception so you can rest easily knowing they’re behaving!) and family pool time available from 9-5. Perfect for if you want a bit of peace for an evening swim. Guests were pretty much a mix of families with children, couples, golfers and dog owners ready to take their pups exploring Dartmoor.

SCOFF & QUAFF

There are two restaurants here – the more laid back Smith’s Brasserie which would be perfect for lunch or an early dinner. It’s got one AA rosette and has a Mediterranean-inspired menu with plenty of people-pleasers like Bovey Estate venison ragu, carbonara, pizzas and club sandwiches. There’s a huge feature table around a fire which would be great if there’s a big group, or plenty of nooks and crannies for a cosy meal for two. I thoroughly enjoyed my starter of Serrano ham, cantaloupe melon and figs, followed by a delicious Caesar salad. For pud we shared local Devonshire ice creams and a milk chocolate tart which was creamy and indulgent.

If you’re looking for a real treat though, you’re going to want to book into the newly-opened 3 AA rosette-winning Great Western Grill. It has been closed for the last three years due to Covid and undergone a £1.2million kitchen upgrade, but now the doors are flung open and there’s a twinkling piano player to welcome you through the doors. It’s a grand room complete with chandeliers, freshly ironed tablecloths and a waiter always on hand to pull out your chair and top up your glass.

Head chef Mark Budd has taken some classic meals and given them a twist, and he’s big on locally sourced so nearly everything from the menu is from the estate and as close by as possible. Vegans and veggies are well catered for too, and there’s a smaller kids menu for little ones.

To start I went for some of the freshest smoked salmon I’ve ever tried, perfectly complimented with fresh horseradish and a black treacle soda bread. It was a really light way to start the meal, which was a good choice really as I was a complete pig and opted for the wagyu and bone marrow burger. It had been recommended to me by one of the waiters (I was torn between that and the red wine braised oxtail cottage pie) and did not disappoint. It was a really hearty affair with heaps of triple cooked chips and Roscoff onion Lyonnaise and – bold claim – one of the best burgers I’ve had with hefty pieces of wagyu steak.

Mr Muddy went with the steak which was perfectly cooked on a chargrill and served with a mellow peppercorn sauce.

We were definitely too full for dessert but had a brief break with another glass of crisp rose Calafuria from Puglia and were nearly ready to go. I was recommended the duck egg custard tart which was divine with crunchy pastry and a light custard topped with a dusting of cinnamon. My other half went with a retro baked Alaska – given an upgrade with Bovey estate honey and lavender and a lovely light option.

PILLOW TALK

There’s 60 bedrooms at Bovey Castle, all individually and elegantly styled in warm tones where you can kick off your heels – or walking boots – and chill. If you’re heading for a break with all the family or a group of friends you might want to check into one of 22 luxurious lodges instead, with a kitchen so you can cook up your own meals if you feel like having no reason to leave.

Rooms in the hotel go from single to double up to Grand State sizes, we were in the Widecombe suite, named after nearby Widecombe in the Moor. There was more than enough room for the two of us with a comfy king size bed, huge bathroom complete with roll-top bath, separate shower, luxury Temple Spa products and two fluffy bathrobes just waiting to be snuggled up in (or throw on to hot-foot it to the spa like we did!).

The lounge was a sumptuous affair with mahogany furniture, a bottle of champers chilling on our arrival and a sofa where I spent quite a bit of time enjoying Nespresso coffees and flicking through Vogue and the like which were begging to be read on the table. There’s a walk-in wardrobe too which was more than big enough for the two of us, and a delicious house-made sloe gin for a nightcap (or three).

OUT & ABOUT

If you’re an outdoorsy-kinda gal there’s heaps to do around here. Reception will point you in the right direction for some beautiful walks from the hotel or if you fancy going a little further afield. We went a beautiful drive through Dartmoor to Cox Tor which was a relatively short walk with a very conveniently placed ice cream van at the bottom. Other beautiful areas locally include Lydford Gorge, Postbridge and if you want to entertain the kids there’s the Miniature Pony Sanctuary just a couple of minutes down the road.

For shops, cafes and pubs there’s the pretty town of Tavistock which we went an amble around too making a stop at its famous Pannier Market and indie shops to spend too much money on local whiskeys and produce (you gotta, right?) For more of a city vibe Bovey Castle is right between Exeter and Plymouth.

CHILD FRIENDLY?

Super child friendly. There’s loads to keep little and big kids entertained along with smaller meals in both restaurants and dedicated swimming times in the pool.

DOG FRIENDLY?

brown dog chasing tennis ball at Bovey Castle

What’s a holiday without taking the pooch? They’re allowed in the rooms and lodges and owners will be given a booklet of the best doggy-friendly walks around. By the main entrance there’s a supply of towels to dry wet paws but if your dog enjoys the finer thing in life they can take afternoon tea and dinner in the Cathedral Room alongside their owners.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Couples, families, golfers, spa seekers, walkers, dog owners, most people are covered here whether they’re looking for a fun-filled adventure break or some downtime.

Not for: If you’re after somewhere a little more in the thick of it then this might not be the place for you. Saying that, there’s everything you could ever need and more onsite so kick back and relax for a bit!

The damage: Rooms start at £175 per night for a double room going up to £519 per night for a state room and £525 for a lodge.

Bovey Castle, North Bovey, Dartmoor National Park, Devon, TQ13 8RE

Tel: 01647 445000

Review: Bovey Castle, Dartmoor

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